Lost in the mystical field of Muong Than

Update: 05/12/2014
“First Thanh, Second Lo, Third Than, Forth Tac” – an old adage from our ancestors placed Muong Than among the most beautiful fields in Northwest region.


Mysterious stories about the “Winds of Than Uyen” can spur any enthusiastic adventurer to journey along Road 32 from Mu Cang Chai (Yen Bai Province) to Than Uyen (Lai Chau Province) in a sunny winter day. The town of Than Uyen is located in a valley, among a vast, sloping field. Here, a peaceful countryside welcome visitors to join the rustic lifestyle of local people weaving traditional “Tho Cam” brocades. A traveler, however weary, would be promptly mesmerized by a charming landscape and delicious local cuisines. First among them is “Pa Boong” – a time-honored fish delicacy of Thai people. It can be found everywhere, from small inns to beautiful stilt houses of Thai ethnic group.

To prepare this unique and fantastic cuisine, the local inhabitants need to catch the fish named “pa vá” fresh from the Nam Mu stream. After being preliminarily cleaned, the fish is well seasoned with ginger, salt, chili, garlic, wine, especially the fragrant dried rice flavor. Afterwards, the fish is put into a sealed bamboo pipe, to marinate for half of the month, absorbing salts and other spices, before it is considered ready. At the feasting table, the fish is then grilled over charcoal, filling the room with its sweet, mouth-watering aroma. This delicacy, usually served with sticky rice, would leave a pleasant and everlasting experience, etched into the memories of the lucky visitors.

In this season, strolling in the field of Muong Than, one can imagine getting lost in an endless magical valley from the fairy tales, spell-bound by the colorful rhythm of the country life. The winds rushing into the basin have created a special climate on this third most beautiful field in Tay Bac – the Northwest, their sharp whistles during dry seasons poetically dubbed the “Winds of Than Uyen”, told far and wide in fascinating stories. In discovering Than Uyen, travelers often go up to Muong Cang, across Muong Mit commune, to see stilt houses glimpsed amid blooming patches of colorful Pinkster flowers on the mountain slopes. Observing peaceful images of Thai people who inhabit this beautiful lands also bring fantastic experiences, especially the women weaving traditional fabrics. In Muong Cang commune, this is their busy season, weaving clothes, scarves and carpets for the family, while the maidens diligently prepare for their future happy nuptials in the coming spring.

Quang Phạm
Translator: Thu Phương
Update: 12/5/2014